Ultimate Guide! How To Layer For Skiing and Snowboarding (And Stay Warm All Day)

Cliff's Notes version: You wanna stay warm? You got to layer. Then, add on the right accessories to make sure you stay toasty in all the right places.

Contents

• How does layering work?
• Two reasons to layer
• What to look for in layers
• The fabrics
• The layers
• Base layer
• Mid layer
• Outer layer
• How to stay warm all day
• Hands
• Feet
• Hand and Foot Warmers
• Helmets
• Balaclavas
• Mind the gap!
• Conclusion

What Is Layering and How Does It Work?

Back in the day, layering wasn't really a thing. When we were kids, you'd go out there in the thickest, chunkiest sweaters and jackets you could find. (We even used to ski in -shudder- sweatshirts under our jackets sometimes!

With all that insulation, you'd often end up first too warm, and then eventually too cold. That's because those pieces we were wearing were terrible at working together to regulate body temperature.

Thankfully, with new technologies, you can layer much better - and you can also do away with the bulk and stop looking like the Michelin Man.

Hey, he fits right in! Courtesy of Michelin on Twitter.

A layering system involves multiple pieces of clothing that work together to provide insulation, breathability, and protection against cold weather conditions. Each layer serves multiple purposes, from wicking away moisture to trapping body heat. By properly layering, you can regulate body temperature, adapt to changing weather conditions, and, most importantly, stay dry and cozy.

We're going to discuss the different layers you need, the materials to look for, and how to choose the right layers for different weather conditions. So, let's dive in and learn how to layer like a pro for your next skiing adventure.

Two Big Reasons You Should Dump The Chunkies And Layer Instead

1. Flexibility. Wearing multiple layers allows you to easily add or remove clothing as needed throughout the day. This flexibility ensures that you stay comfortable and maintain an optimal body temperature, whether you are braving cold, windy conditions or coasting through spring slush.

2. Comfort. In addition to warmth and dryness, layering also improves comfort. Technical fabrics are breathable and moisture-wicking, allowing moisture to escape and preventing sweat and discomfort.

What You Should Look For When Choosing Layers

Let's talk a bit about what you need to look for when choosing ski and snowboard clothing and why it's important.

Moisture Wicking

'Wicking' is the ability to pull moisture away from your skin and transfer it to the outer layers of clothing. This is crucial, because you can easily work up a sweat if you're shredding. Or if you are swimming out of deep snow that you didn't expect, dragging one ski in each hand while your legs sink down to the thigh on each step...

In these situations, wicking fabrics will efficiently absorb your sweat and move it out towards the open air, preventing it from lingering on your skin. Without it, the sweat would cool on your skin, and eventually you'd start shivering. So wicking doesn't just keep you dry, but also warm.

Breathability

Once that moisture has moved, where does it go? Breathability refers to the ability of a fabric to release air and moisture such as sweat. Otherwise it would just remain stuck there, even if the fabric has absorbed it and moved it away from your skin.

Different layering pieces will have different levels of breathability. It's extra important for your mid layer, and that's one reason these are typically soft. Some may even have ventilation panels to let hot air escape. On the other hand, you wouldn't want holes in your outer layer to let all that cold wind through!

Insulation

Ok, you've taken care of the moisture, but how about actually staying warm? Your base layer and mid layer will definitely be doing a lot of the heavy lifting here. Your jacket might, depending on what type it is. But this is where your layers get to work to trap a thin layer of warm air inside your clothes, so that you retain your body heat.

Waterproofing and Windproofing

Waterproofing is the ability of a material or garment, like your ski jacket or ski pants, to resist the penetration of water, keeping the wearer dry even in wet snow or rain. This is achieved through the use of special membranes or coatings that repel water.

Windproofing refers to the ability of a material to block the wind from passing through, preventing wind chill and keeping that precious hot air trapped.

Both of these are most critical for your outer layer(s), and some accessories.

But wait, you may be thinking. If the outer layer is wind- and waterproof, how does it let moisture escape from the inside?

This is a great question - more on that down below in the 'outer layer' section.

The Two Fabrics You Should Choose Between

First let's get one thing out of the way.

 

NO COTTON. If there's one thing you take away from this article, let it be this. No cotton!

While there are some true hotshots who do ski in sweatshirts and jeans, if you're a beginner we don't recommend it. Basically, you should only do that if you never fall and if you're in mild conditions. Because as soon as do, that cotton will soak up all that cold, cold snow and become freezing wet very quickly. Same if it's raining or snowing. Cotton isn't wicking, insulating, or water- or windproof.

You want quick-dry fabrics with some or all of the properties described above. This basically means two things: synthetics or merino wool.

Synthetic Fabrics

These fabrics, like polyester, nylon, and fleece, are known for their ability to trap air and create a layer of warmth around your body, plus for their durability and quick-drying capabilities. They're also the lightest options on the market, and some of the best at moisture wicking.

Companies like Patagonia, Arc'teryx, and Helly Hansen make excellent synthetic gear. But there are tons of options out there these days for every price point. Just be aware that a more budget item may not perform as well.

Merino Wool

Made from the wool of the merino sheep, this is a treasured material. Its claim to fame is odor resistance. It's better at releasing odors than synthetics are, and so you'll often find people wearing a merino layer for many ski days before it needs a wash, while some synthetics may need more frequent washes.

It's also more efficient at trapping heat due to the way its fibers are structured, so a merino layer will be warmer than a synthetic layer of the same weight.

And there's one interesting trade-off. Synthetics are actually faster drying than merino - but merino does better at trapping body heat when wet. We'd say these two even out. But it also depends how sweaty you get.

The downside is that merino can be itchy, and it isn't for everyone. It's also pricier than synthetics, in general.

The Layers

You'll need at least three. Base layers are the foundation of a good layering system. They are designed to regulate body temperature and simultaneously wick away moisture, keeping you dry. They are usually thin and tight-fitting.

Mid layers, like jackets and fleece, provide insulation, trapping body heat and keeping it close to the body, while ideally also allowing moisture to pass through on its way away from the body. Opt for materials like fleece or a synthetic blend, which offer extra warmth without adding too much bulk. This layer should have a looser fit to allow for both airflow and heat retention.

The outer layer, such as a ski jacket, acts as a shield against wind, rain, and snow, ensuring that skiers stay protected from the elements. It should be waterproof, windproof, and highly breathable, to let that moisture complete its journey back to the elements.

Let's get you up here AND keep you toasty.

Thermal Base Layer

As the base layer is meant to be worn next to your skin, a snug fit is ideal to prevent overheating and to trap body heat, and to efficiently pick up and move moisture. If it's too loose, it could bunch up, and if sweat gets trapped in the folds of the material it kind of defeats the purpose. So make sure it's almost skintight, but of course still is loose enough for you to move easily.

Thermal base layers come in different weights, ranging from light to heavy. You'll want to choose based on where you're skiing and how warm or cold you run. Someone skiing in the Pacific Northwest barely below freezing may want a much lighter layer than someone in the 10,000 ft+ elevations of Colorado. The warmth level will be labeled clearly on the box, so just look for the right one.

📋 What you need: One for your torso, and one for your legs ('long johns').

As a general guide, we'd say:

• If you're skiing in major mountains in the Pacific Northwest, or anything inland away from the coast, you'll want at least a midweight. If you run cold, you may want a heavyweight. If you run warm, you might be able to get away with a light to midweight. But if you're just looking for a single option, go with a midweight - it's more versatile.
• If you're in the Midwest, or the East Coast, you'll probably want a mid- to heavyweight.

Many companies make good options - just remember to look for the properties mentioned above: moisture wicking, breathable, and insulating. Beyond that, find the one that fits you best and suits your temperature combination. Here are some of our favourite base layer families:

• Patagonia Capilene - Probably the gold standard for synthetic baselayers. A variety of options too. Many, many people swear by these. Just note the Capilene Air is a merino blend - the best of both worlds, but also by far the warmest. If you run warm and aren't in a super cold area, maybe avoid that one.
• Icebreaker Merino - The gold standard for merino baselayers. Sustainable, and well made. Smartwool is also quality, but they have so much stuff that we sometimes find their website overwhelming.

The above two are a little pricy, but there are tons of great offerings out there.

• Helly Hansen makes the excellent Lifa, and has a large product range.
• The North Face does too.
• Worst case, just pop down to your local REI or MEC or (or Decathlon depending where you are in the world!) and browse their base layer selection.

That being said, we think it's highly worth investing in your base layer. If you have limited budget, try to allocate enough for a high-quality base layer. It makes a world of difference.

Mid Layer

This is going to be looser than the base layer, but it still needs to be highly breathable, wicking, and insulating.

📋 What you need: At least one jacket or pullover for your top half, maybe two depending on where you're skiing. However, you probably don't need one for your legs. This is because your quads do all the work while you're skiing, so they get warm and emit heat. Many ski pants have some insulation, so a combination of base layer + mid layer + insulated pant can easily be overkill. We know people that are just fine with a pair of long johns and just a shell ski pant, even in the Midwest!

Once again, mid layers come in different weights (insulation levels). The warmth level you pick will depend on what you're wearing beneath (base layer) and what you have on top (outer layer). If your ski jacket has no insulation, remember that your base- and mid layer(s) have to provide all the warmth. But the great thing about layering is that... you can always just add another one!

You can use a fleece, a down jacket (in some cases) or a synthetic insulated piece. Just pick the right weight for you, and beyond that it's totally personal preference.

Fleece

You can't go wrong with this. Fleece is a synthetic material made from polyester, and it's naturally got all of the above properties.

Ski companies like Patagonia, North Face, and so on all make excellent fleeces which are thin and have nice features like under-arm ventilation panels and textured ribbing to ease movement (also known as 'grid fleeces'). Here are some examples:

• Patagonia R2
• REI's excellent selection of fleeces
• The North Face - Men's and Women's

⚠️ Merino wool companies like Icebreaker also make merino midlayers. Although they're not technically fleece, they provide basically the same performance, so we're including them here.

You can also do just fine with a cheap fleece from your local sporting goods store (or even from Amazon, in a pinch). Those budget options may not feel as nice as the fancy ones, but they'll do the job well enough.

Down

Generally, avoid this. Down isn't great at wicking, nor is it quick-dry. It also doesn't provide warmth when wet. It is, however, great at insulating, probably better than any of the other materials - as long as it stays dry. So we'd only recommend this if you run really cold.

Synthetic Insulation

Like fleece, but kind of on steroids. Quite possibly better at temperature regulation. On the other hand, fleece is typically much more breathable than any synthetic insulation except for products designed specifically for breathability during active use, like Patagonia's Nano Air or Arc'teryx's Proton range. There are others, but these are the two frontrunners.

The big reason to go for a synthetic is packability. These can compress right down, and they are super light. And because their outer layer is usually a sheer material, there's very little friction between a synthetic mid layer and whatever you wear on top of it. This produces an amazing feeling of weightlessness!

• Patagonia Nano Air
• Arc'teryx Proton (once again, these come in multiple weights)
• Arc'teryx Atom - synthetic insulation, but best for low intensity activities. This will be great for standing around in the cold air, for example, where the Nano Air might lose too much heat.

Downside: The good ones, which we've linked above, are pretty pricey. If you aren't ready to splurge, you're probably better off sticking with a cheap fleece. Otherwise, you might end up miserable.

If you're budget limited, your mid layer is where you can save.

Outer Layer

This is it... the final frontier. This is the layer that shields you from wind, snow, and rain, so in most cases, it needs to be both waterproof and breathable. So look for a high waterproof and breathability rating to keep you dry. (These ratings are usually only applied to outerwear, so you haven't missed anything up above.)

Pants are equally important, so opt for waterproof ski or snowboard pants, ideally with reinforced knees and seat for added durability. Ski pants will have a slightly slimmer leg, while snowboard pants will be wider at the ankle to fit over bulkier snowboard boots.

📋 What you need: A ski or snowboard jacket and pants. Choose your insulation type based on your budget, the level of versatility you want, and your other items. Choose softshell or hardshell depending on where you are skiing. And choose pants or bibs based on, well, personal preference.

There is a huge, huge variety of outerwear. We'll cover a few of the basic options below.

Insulated or Not?

Insulated jackets provide, well, insulation, in addition to breathability and waterproofing. These are a great option for skiers and boarders who tend to get cold easily or are out in extremely cold temperatures. This is likely what you think of when you think 'ski jacket'.

Shell jackets provide better breathability, better moisture-wicking, and more flexibility, so they're better if you run warm, are exerting heavily, or want more versatility for a range of conditions. But they have no insulation, so you will be relying on your mid- and base layers to provide all the warmth.

It's important to note that an insulated jacket can totally be part of a great layering system, as long as its outer material is breathable and wicking. It just won't be quite as good at either of those as a pure shell.

Softshell or Hardshell?

Softshell jackets are known for their flexibility and breathability - they beat hardshells in both areas. They provide excellent freedom of movement, so they can be more comfortable. But they are typically only water-resistant, and not as wind-proof as a hardshell. Unless you're only skiing in good weather, or already have a hardshell and just want something for those nicer days, we wouldn't recommend this. And needless to say, don't get a softshell if you are in an area with a lot of rain or snow.

Hardshell jackets are made from waterproof and windproof fabrics such as Gore-Tex or other nylon-based materials. Most ski jackets out there are probably hardshells, since they are designed to be bulletproof and to keep you warm and dry at all costs in harsh weather conditions.

⚠️ Note that softshell / hardshell just refers to the type of material used in the outer layer! Both softshells and hardshells can be insulated or a pure shell.

The better the hardshell material, the more breathable and moisture-wicking it will be! Hardshells with the highest breathability and waterproof ratings provide the best of both worlds, and may even come close to softshells in breathability - but of course they will be the most expensive.

Waterproofing and Breathability Ranges

Here are some general ranges for waterproofing ratings:

• 3,000-5,000: This is where waterproofing starts, but anything in this range is barely ok for a light drizzle.
• 10,000-15,000: Entry-level snow gear. You can get by with this for the most part assuming you are not in a rain- or snowstorm.
• 15,000-20,000: Industry standard for all weather, all-mountain use.
• 20,000-25,000: Performance gear for the worst weathers.
• 25,000 and above: Will survive the apocalypse.

And a general guideline to breathability ratings:

• Below 10,000: No good! Expect to get clammy.
• 10,000-20,000: Industry standard for snow gear
• 20,000 and above: Performance range, especially as you get towards 30,000 or 35,000

Gore-Tex is probably the most well-known of all these materials. Its 'Classic' line has 28,000 waterproofing with 17,000 breathability, while its 'Pro' line has 28,000 waterproofing with 25,000 breathability and is also more durable.

Do you need the Pro? If you're just starting out, definitely not. You'd be just fine with GoreTex Classic. However, even that can be quite expensive. Thankfully, other manufacturers produce in-house brands with a variety of combinations of breathability and waterproofing levels, so you aren't limited to Gore. For example, Helly Hansen's HellyTech is rated at 14,000 for waterproofing and 18,000 for breathability. Salomon makes a 10,000/30,000 combo, and Mountain Hardware makes a 30,000/40,000 combo. These are all in-house brands, so they save on GoreTex licensing fees and can charge you less.

Just beware of going for a two-layer (2L) jacket or pant. These aren't durable, and don't work very well. You want 3L at the very least. (This is a reference to the manufacturing process, not the number of layers you're wearing!)

Styles

Jackets can be slim-fit, baggy, or anything in-between. This is totally personal preference. Ski and board bottoms, though, have two big variations: pants or bibs.

Pants are your regular pant. They button up and will have a normal fly. Easy to get in and out of, and can be low- or high-rise. But they may be less comfortable depending on how they fit - and if you fall, snow can easily go down your waistband.

Bibs will go up past your stomach and sometimes even up to your chest. They typically have a pair of suspenders that you pull up over your shoulders, which sits on top of your base layer and underneath your mid layer. Because they're not relying on a zip and button to stay up, they can be looser, allowing more freedom of movement and more comfort. You're also less likely to get snow down your pants if you call, since they go up so high! The downside is that they are harder to get off if you need to run to the loo - you'll have to take off your jackets to be able to get the suspenders off your shoulders. But! Some versions come with zips down the side of the pants that let the seat fall away, solving that problem.

Bib to the rescue!

Other Fun Features In Ski And Snowboard Jackets

Other little details that make a huge difference to your quality of life are things like:

• cinchable wrist cuffs, so you can fit your gloves over them and prevent snow going up your sleeves
• a helmet-compatible hood - the hood should be big and deep enough to reach all the way over your helmet, which means it will stay in place while you move. Otherwise, the hood gets stuck on the top of your helmet, and falls back down soon as you start moving.
• seam-sealed zippers, also known as taped zippers - a waterproof sealant around the zippers to make sure water doesn't drip through them
• a ski pass pocket, and/or a cell phone pocket

• a snow skirt - if you want it. If you buy matching pants, sometimes these hook together to keep all the snow out if you fall. But it does add weight.

Making Sure You Stay Warm While Skiing

So you've got your layers dialed. But then there are all these other pesky parts of your body, like hands, feet, neck, face, ears... what do you do about those?